What should I do with my plants?

Hardy Water Plants
Over-wintering all of your plants is easy. They can be left as is, but it is wise to trim back the dead foliage so it doesn't decompose in the pond through out the winter. Marginal plants, such as cattails, iris, reeds, rushes, etc. can simply be cut back to the surface of the water. Hardy lilies can be trimmed back to 3" or 4" above the crown (base).

Tropical Water Plants
Tropical lilies and floating plants can be brought inside for the winter with some success, or treated as an annual and replaced each season. If you decide to over-winter your tropical lily remove it from the pond after the first frost. Cut off the lily leaves and keep only the tubers. Store the tubers in a green house or cool basement. (Check with your local plant supplier for more information).

What are fall clean-outs?
Fall clean-outs are performed to prepare the pond for the winter. Fall clean-outs are usually completed after the trees have ceased dropping their leaves. First we use a net with a long handle to help remove the leaves and debris from the pond and stream(s). Try to get as much out as possible. Debris left in the pond over the winter will decompose and release toxins within your system causing a larger mess to clean out in the spring.

What do I do with my fish?
Leave them alone! Your fish will winter over in a system that is at least 2 feet deep if they have good gas exchange.

How can I make sure there is good gas exchange in the pond?
To make sure that your pond will have good gas exchange you must leave a hole in the ice so oxygen can enter and any harmful gases can escape. We recommend Aquascape's de-icer fountain kit. The de-icer fountain kit is placed approximately 12" below the water surface so the fountainhead is just below the surface of the water. The de-icer fountain kit will agitate the water so a hole remains in the ice. If the weather gets too cold for this method, use a floating heater in conjunction with the fountain. Be careful when operating the heater alone though. At 1250 watts the heater can be very expensive to run, so it should only be used when you notice the de-icer fountain kit can no longer keep up with the cold extremely cold temperatures. (usually 15 degrees Fahrenheit or less)

Can I leave my system running over winter?
Maintenance is usually the determining factor whether a pond owner keeps their pond running in the winter. The primary maintenance responsibility in the winter is to make sure there is enough water for the pump(s) to operate properly. There are a few conditions that affect the amount of water available to the pump. The first is the layer of ice that forms across the surface of the pond. For instance ponds in Chicago (zone 5) typically experience ice no more than 6 inches thick. Generally this will not cause any problems. The ice layer will be thickest in the middle of the pond and thinner along the edges where the ground insulates the sides. The thickness of ice directly in front of the skimmer will also be thinner due to the rushing water traveling into the skimmer. The weir flap on the skimmer door, if needed, can be removed during the winter to allow more water to flow into the skimmer. The second is the ice sculptures that form around the waterfalls also “lock up" water that was once available to the pump. Evaporation is another culprit and still takes place in the cold of winter, although not as quickly as in the hot summer months. Normally, adding water in the summer is not too troublesome. The difficulty with manually filling the pond during the winter months is that the usual water supply options are now not available. Outdoor water spigots are turned off during the winter months to prevent pipes from cracking. The Aquascape's WFV200, automatic water fill valve system will not operate during the winter. (Please note that there is no winter preparation for the water fill system other than disconnecting it from the spigot on the house.) Most pond owners who run their systems find an alternate source to fill their pond. Water can be supplied via a hose run from inside the house or multiple trips back and forth with a 5-gallon bucket. The amount of times a pond owner will have to add water will depend on how extreme the winter is. Generally it is not uncommon to have to go out once or twice a month during the winter to “top-off" the pond. Yes, it is a chore but the beautiful ice formations in the waterfalls make it well worth it. Pump size and the elevation change of the waterfalls are also important in the ability to run the waterfalls during the winter. We have found that pumps producing 2,000 gallons or more, such as the Aquascapes Pump (2750 gph) is usually the minimum flow rate to keep the waterfall operating. Don't worry; water moving at this speed will not freeze in the pipes. What you do have to be concerned about is slow moving streams with little elevation change. Streams such as these tend to form ice dams causing water to back up, if the water backs up enough it will travel over the edge of the liner causing the pond to leak. The first time pond owner who wishes to run their waterfalls should keep a close eye on their pond during extremely low temperatures. They may not be able to run their pond during the winter if problems occur.

Will my filters and pipe crack?
Absolutely not! Our filters have been put through the extreme Chicago winters for ten years now. They are constructed out of roto-molded polyethylene and are designed to bow and bend with the freezing and thawing effect of winter. The pipe is reinforced and will not crack. If you decided to keep your pump running all winter long then there will still be a constant flow of water traveling through it. If you decided to turn your system off for the winter, most of the water in the pipe will drain back into the pond when you remove your pump. Don't worry about any remaining water in the filters or plumbing they will not crack due to their flexible nature.